DION LEE Fall/Winter 2023 collection: balancing subversive sexuality and sensuality

Dion Lee, the talented Australian fashion designer, showcased his exceptional ability to bring together seemingly opposing elements in his latest fall collection.

Dion Lee, who is well-known for his innovative designs and a modern, sculptural approach to women’s wear, riffed on the theme of “second skin” with a collection that explored the tension between subversive sexuality and sensuality. The collection was inspired by reptile scales and their representation of the shedding of skin, with the designer citing a parallel between this process of constant change in nature and the evolution of his own work.

Lee’s material exploration of the reptilian motif was a standout feature of the collection, and his attention to detail was evident in his use of materials and techniques. He incorporated rhombus-shaped eyelet belting, mixed-gauge mesh, peeling rubber, distressed ball chain applied over silk georgette dresses, shaved shearling, and Japanese shibori dyeing. These elements were paired with Lee’s signature party-ready silhouettes to create a visually stunning collection.

The designer also showcased his outerwear designs, which included potent shearling styles, puffer jackets cut in corset-like shapes, and translucent inflatable jackets. Denim was also a focus, with distressed styles featuring prominently. Lee also experimented with ripped hosiery dresses and tops in menswear, showcasing his commitment to pushing boundaries and exploring new ideas.

One particularly interesting proposal in the collection was the use of boning in horizontal stacks to create drape and structure. This innovative technique demonstrated Lee’s expertise in materialization and his ability to bring together seemingly disparate elements to create beautiful, wearable fashion.