The latest collection from Alexander McQueen showcased a unique combination of Victorian rigidity and Art Nouveau flair. Under the creative direction of Sarah Burton, the collection showcased signature sharp tailoring that McQueen is renowned for, but with an added touch of nature-inspired elements.
The models walked down the runway in high-waisted trousers, corset-like tops, and elongated topcoats that exuded sophistication. Some of the pieces were even sculptural, such as a navy blue trench coat with a nipped waist and a flared skirt.
However, upon closer inspection, the collection revealed a number of surprises and luxurious details. Some of the seemingly formal and buttoned-up jackets were slashed open at the back, revealing a white shirt or bare skin. Others were embellished with garnet or jet beads shaped into intricate orchid designs. Orchids were a recurring theme in the collection, appearing as a black-and-white photo print on a cream cady suit or jacquard knit into a chunky white rollneck sweater.
The solid-colored sculptural trenches were a true standout, with their dual personalities. They appeared sophisticated and elegant at the front, but their storm shields at the back were covered in Art Nouveau swirls and the letters “A” and “M”, a motif that also appeared on belt buckles.
Sarah Burton also applied the same powerful lines and soft touches to more casual pieces, placing an orchid photo print with bleeding edges onto a sweatshirt and an abstracted silhouette of the flower on a long olive green quilted parka.
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