Anthony Vaccarello brought Paris Fashion Week to a close with a SAINT LAURENT Fall 2024 menswear collection that defied expectations. Following his earlier, daringly sheer womenswear presentation, Vaccarello offered a masterclass in reimagined tailoring, breathing new life into classic silhouettes with a languid, distinctly modern touch.
Vaccarello’s reverence for the house’s heritage was evident throughout the show. The venue mirrored the grandeur of Yves Saint Laurent’s couture presentations, complete with a floral archway. Models paid homage to the founder himself, their appearances echoing his style through the decades. But Vaccarello wasn’t simply revisiting the past. He expertly wove these nostalgic elements into his own vision, resulting in a collection that felt fresh and undeniably SAINT LAURENT. Soft, double-breasted suits took center stage, crafted from luxurious fabrics like georgette and satin that draped fluidly on the body.
The overall effect was one of decadent masculinity. Rich, powdery color palettes and matte fabrics exuded a luxurious feel, while the languid tailoring offered a relaxed counterpoint. Hints of American Psycho‘s Patrick Bateman materialized in the sleek hairstyles, adding a touch of edge. The luxurious textures, however, whispered of Richard Gere’s Julian Kay in American Gigolo, a subtle nod to a different kind of seductive power.
Vaccarello’s Fall 2024 collection arrived as a welcome respite at the end of a marathon fashion month. It was a collection that transcended trends, offering pieces that were both undeniably chic and effortlessly easy to like. This ability to push boundaries while remaining true to the SAINT LAURENT legacy is a hallmark of Vaccarello’s tenure at the house, and this collection is no exception.
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