Aurel Bacs, a renowned auctioneer at Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo, recently announced the auction of an extraordinary Patek Philippe wristwatch once owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of the Qing dynasty.
A rare and historically significant Patek Philippe timepiece, the Ref 96 Quantieme Lune wristwatch, is set to be auctioned off later this year. Previously owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China’s Qing dynasty, the watch has witnessed key moments in history and is expected to fetch a hefty sum at auction.
It remains uncertain when Puyi obtained the wristwatch, but it was likely during his time as Japan’s puppet emperor of Manchuria or while he was held captive in Siberia. Regardless of when he acquired it, the timepiece remained in his possession through various tumultuous events in his life, including his five years as a captive of the Soviets.
According to Aurel Bacs, the auctioneer handling the sale, the Patek Philippe Ref 96 Quantieme Lune would be incredibly rare and sought after even without its royal history. The watch features a moon phase and triple-date calendar – an impressive feat of craftsmanship for the 1930s when it was made. Bacs emphasizes that only skilled artisans of the time could achieve such complications in slim wristwatch cases.
The watch’s rarity is further accentuated by the fact that it is one of only three known examples of the Ref 96 with a silvered dial, rose-gold chapter ring, and enamel hour markers. Bacs told Bloomberg, “Any auction house, if they didn’t know the story, if it didn’t have any of this extraordinary ephemera coming with it, would already say, ‘Wow, this is the highlight of the season’.”
With its triple date and moon phase features, this exquisite wristwatch embodies the essence of the iconic Calatrava line, showcasing Patek Philippe’s mastery in the art of watchmaking.
Crafted in platinum with a round, slim, 30mm case, the Ref. 96QL boasts clean lines, a flat bezel, and tapered lugs that reflect the aesthetics of the Bauhaus movement. The well-preserved snap case retains its original factory finishes and satin polishing, while the thick, well-proportioned curved lugs provide a perfect complement. Inside the caseback, the Poinçon de Maître No.4, registered on September 8th, 1934, attests to the work of Antoine Gerlach SA, a Geneva-based case-maker known for his influence on the design of Patek Philippe watches.
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The French calendar, with a display of VEN, MAI 19 (Friday, May 19), highlights the watch’s origin and is accompanied by FAB. SUISSE inscriptions, preserved in crisp condition on the inner caseback. Several hallmarks further underscore the timepiece’s authenticity, including the Greek male head mask, which indicates a minimum 950 standard for imported platinum items, and the oval J G & Cie hallmark, signifying that the watch was sold by Jean Guillermin, the sole French importer of Patek Philippe timepieces at the time.
The Ref. 96QL is incredibly rare, with only two known examples featuring the enamel Arabic “Roulette” configuration, both bearing consecutive Victorin Piguet 11” ebauche movements. Produced during the onset of the Great Depression, these movements were never cased until the revolutionary unveiling of the Ref. 96 in 1932, when they were upgraded and fitted into the modernist platinum cases influenced by Bauhaus design principles.
Currently, only three known examples of the platinum Ref. 96QL exist, with the present example being the only one with an imperial provenance. All three watches date back to 1937 and bear consecutive movement numbers and closely related case numbers. This particular example, with movement number 198’299 and case number 294’462, is fitted with a French calendar and remains in its original untouched condition.
The timepiece’s value is challenging to estimate, given its unique historical significance and the advancements in the collector’s market over the past 20 years. Bacs suggests that the watch’s provenance could significantly multiply its value, as was the case with Paul Newman’s Rolex, which he sold for a record $17.8 million.
Puyi’s Patek Philippe wristwatch and other personal effects, including a red paper fan inscribed with a poem dedicated to his Russian translator and friend Georgy Permyakov, will debut at Phillips Hong Kong from March 18 to March 31. The items will also make appearances in New York, Singapore, London, Taipei, and Geneva before the auction later in 2023.
In an excerpt from his memoir, Puyi’s nephew, Yuyan, recounts being rewarded with the platinum watch for his loyalty during their time in Soviet prisons. “I was loyal to Puyi during our time in the Soviet prisons, so he rewarded me with a calendar embedded platinum watch which I was, undoubtedly, very familiar with. Back in the Manchukuo period, Puyi wore this exceptional watch day to day. I was particularly fond of it, not only because of its superb quality, but also the fact that it was such a personal item of Puyi!” Upon their release, Puyi offered the watch to his Russian translator Georgy Permyakov, who later bequeathed it to his heirs. The watch remained with Permyakov’s family until a few years ago, when it was sold to an anonymous European collector.
Aurel Bacs and his team spent three years researching the watch’s history, ensuring its authenticity, and locating its serial number and sale date in the Patek Philippe archives. The timepiece remains in its original untouched condition, with the strap and buckle displaying consistent patina throughout.
For collectors, this auction presents a rare opportunity to acquire not only a significant piece of Patek Philippe’s history but also a part of world cultural history. As the auction draws closer, the excitement grows over the potential record-breaking sale of this remarkable timepiece. The most expensive watch ever sold at auction was a unique Patek Philippe “Grandmaster Chime,” which fetched $31 million in 2019 without any previous owner or historical narrative attached. With the captivating story of Aisin-Gioro Puyi and the Ref 96 Quantieme Lune wristwatch, this auction could set a new precedent in the world of horology.
The timepiece’s journey from the possession of China’s last emperor to a Soviet translator and eventually an anonymous European collector adds layers of intrigue to its already impressive pedigree. Puyi’s tumultuous life and the watch’s presence throughout his experiences offer a fascinating glimpse into a pivotal period in world history.
The auction of Puyi’s Patek Philippe Ref 96 Quantieme Lune wristwatch serves as a reminder of the intricate connection between personal artifacts and the lives of historical figures. It demonstrates the power of a single object to evoke a rich narrative and capture the imagination of collectors, historians, and enthusiasts alike.
As collectors and aficionados eagerly await the auction, the Patek Philippe Ref 96 Quantieme Lune wristwatch has already succeeded in drawing attention to the life and times of Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of the Qing dynasty. With its unparalleled blend of horological craftsmanship and royal provenance, the timepiece stands as a testament to the enduring allure of history and the stories it has to tell.
Ultimately, the auction of this exceptional Patek Philippe timepiece will offer a rare opportunity for collectors and historians to own a piece of world cultural history. It remains to be seen whether the Ref 96 Quantieme Lune wristwatch will set new records or simply garner significant interest in the watchmaking and collecting world. Regardless of the outcome, the story of Aisin-Gioro Puyi and his extraordinary wristwatch will undoubtedly endure as a captivating tale in the annals of horology and history.
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