HELIOT EMIL, the Danish brand founded by brothers Victor and Julius Juul, made a spectacular appearance at Paris Fashion Week with a fiery runway moment that combined form and function. The professional stuntman in flames gave the models time to change into their second looks, showcasing the brand’s commitment to customizable and convertible clothing.
This was the label’s third time showing in Paris, and their collection was in line with their dark, dystopian style with a focus on proportion play and material development. The zippers that were used in the garments were fully functional, serving not only as design elements but also allowing for the clothes to be reconfigured in different ways. The collection was inspired by the works of British sculptor Henry Moore and took its name from his semi-abstract sculptures that mess with the dynamics of the human body.
Despite the futuristic and refreshingly nostalgia-free feel of the brand, it was disappointing to find an old-fashioned dichotomy in the presentation of the male and female models. The women’s looks were more exposed, while the men’s were concealed, almost menacingly anonymous, behind full-face balaclavas. The designer, Julius Juul, explained that he was seeking to balance the values expressed in the brand ethos of “industrial elegance.”
The sharp tailored pieces with zippers truly lit the imagination with their combination of precision and adaptability, making them the real “fire” of the show. The protective elements in the clothing, such as spongy compression knits and molds, added dimension and shape, complimenting the softness of the down pieces, including boot covers.
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