GUCCI presented its first collection without former creative director Alessandro Michele, and it was clear from the first outfit that the brand was taking a new direction, in a transitional period of sorts.
The models, exclusively male, walked on a beige carpet around a spherical stage to the sound of a live performance by Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog, playing to VIP guests including Idris Elba, South Korean singer and actor Kai, Percy Hynes White and Nick Cave, among others.
The collection, curated by the in-house team and leaning heavily on Michele’s designer predecessors such as Tom Ford and Frida Giannini, includes elements such as the crystal-embossed GG denim pants and the Piston Lock detail originally created by Ford, as well as sleek blazers in pastel tones, loafers and roomy Jackie bags that harken back to Giannini’s jet-setting days. Oversized coats, jackets and pants that contrast with fitted underwear, motorcycle apparel that pays homage to GUCCI archival pieces from the early 2000s are also part of the collection. Other accessories also reference the house’s archives, such as the legendary bamboo bag and a lacquered interpretation of the brand’s monogrammed canvas from the 1970s.
The design team, described as longtime members of the GUCCI house, explored the concept of “improvisation” as “an act of collaboration” and as “a constructive tool for creation” that requires highly specialized skills and knowledge. The collection further focuses on the archetypes of the classic gentleman’s wardrobe, with suits whose detachable elements can be transformed into sleeveless jackets and shorts.
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