Vivienne Westwood‘s legacy continues to inspire, with her eponymous label’s Fall 2024 collection drawing upon the vast archive she left behind. This season, the design team, led by Andreas Kronthaler, embarked on a multifaceted exploration, weaving together threads of Roman grandeur, Napoleonic aesthetics, and a touch of rugged Scottish wilderness.
The collection unveiled at their London headquarters paid homage to the early 19th-century Empire style. Inspired by classical antiquity and military regalia, the lineup showcased intricate prints and Jacquards, meticulously tailored into structured jackets, playful skirts, and louche blouses. A halter-neck top, reminiscent of a gentleman’s vest, was reimagined as a hybrid corset with a structured, boned interior. This playful subversion of form was echoed in a striking red knit cardigan cleverly integrated with a built-in corset, blurring the lines between classic elements and modern innovation.
In stark contrast, the collection also embraced a rugged, animalistic side. Earthy tones and pony-hair accessories, most notably a fuzzy platform boot, evoked the wild, untamed landscapes of Scotland. Referencing the Roman Empire’s toga, dresses crafted from copper viscose fabrics created an illusion of liquid leather, their effortless drape adding a touch of drama. Suiting took center stage, featuring impeccably tailored two-piece ensembles in variegated striped wool. A denim twist on the classic frock coat, paired with matching breeches, exemplified a masterful fusion of tradition and contemporary flair.
While gauzy knits offered a relaxed elegance in patchwork separates, outerwear crafted from red and gray Harris Tweed lent a distinctly British touch to double-breasted coats and structured jackets. This array of intriguing concepts showcased the label’s versatility, yet occasionally bordered on feeling overwhelmed by the sheer number of ideas presented. A more streamlined focus on singular references might have enhanced the overall cohesion and clarity of the collection.