Milan Fashion Week unfolded a sensory experience this season as Alessandro Sartori transported guests to a corner of ZEGNA’s sanctuary, Oasi ZEGNA. Entering the cavernous former fairgrounds, a mesmerizing tableau unfolded: a cascading snowfall of vicuna-colored cashmere flakes, mimicking the brand’s legendary blending room, accompanied by the ethereal whisper of mountain winds. A soundtrack by James Blake underscored the immersive journey.
“It’s like our sala delle mischie,” Sartori mused, referring to the heart of ZEGNA‘s Trivero headquarters, where raw threads are transformed into luxurious yarns. And immerse yourself in the fabrics, as we have done. Sartori, a maestro of textiles, wove a master class through the collection, revealing his relentless pursuit of innovation in materiality.
Comfort redefined. This season, Sartori’s staples evolved organically, exuding freshness and ingenuity. Take the side-seam trousers that subtly sculpt a flattering silhouette, or the reinvented loden coat, now a three-layer cashmere “sandwich” for unparalleled warmth. Sustainability met style in a quilted coat, with a sonic-welded duvet nestled between layers of cashmere.
Layering, the leitmotif, was elevated to an art form. Volume danced with ease, garments neither constricting nor billowing. Sartori championed a hybrid approach, his “four pillars” – tops, bottoms, underpinnings and accessories – forming an open ecosystem for personal expression. Ribbed and padded sweaters transcended the realm of loungewear and morphed into outerwear masterpieces, like the shaved cashmere stunner that stole the show.
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“A reshaping of matter and a re-mattering of shapes,” as Sartori aptly put it. Utility found its voice in an outdoorsy edge, evident in boxy Harris tweed jackets and soft leather bombers adorned with oversized or angled pockets. Cashmere jackets, elongated for fall, featured lowered pockets for a nonchalant touch.
Sartori’s signature color palette blossomed like a mountain meadow, monochromatic looks awash in soft dawn pinks, violet blues, winter whites, buttery tones, foliage browns and greens alongside charcoal and black. Gingham, the only pattern, graced intarsia blazers and added textural intrigue.
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