Paul Smith‘s return to Florence for Pitti Uomo after a 31-year hiatus wasn’t just a sentimental homecoming; it was a vibrant exploration of artistic energy and sartorial subversion. Drawing inspiration from the swinging sixties and the bohemian spirit of London’s Soho, Paul Smith’s Spring 2025 collection for men masterfully blended Italian craftsmanship with a touch of British eccentricity.
The presentation itself, aptly named “The Paul Cafè,” took place within the gilded halls and verdant gardens of Villa Favard. Here, amidst the opulent setting, Paul Smith unveiled a collection that catered to the creative soul. Think loosely knotted ties adorned with souvenir motifs peeking out from under chore jackets, relaxed silhouettes inspired by deconstructed tailoring, and a playful mix of textures and patterns. Carrot-fit denim pants featured tone-on-tone floral motifs, while silky pajama shirts added a touch of nonchalant luxury. Pleated and oversized tailored trousers in houndstooth and Prince of Wales checks completed the look, striking a perfect balance between formal elegance and artistic flair.
Paul Smith also collaborated with the iconic denim brand Lee, further cementing the collection’s workwear-infused spirit, a trend prevalent throughout Pitti Uomo.
Despite a self-proclaimed case of nerves, Sir Paul Smith delivered a convincing presentation. He regaled the audience with anecdotes about his formative years in 1960s Soho, weaving these experiences into the very fabric of the collection. Prominent lapels and narrow ties emblazoned with a mix of Florentine landmarks and Soho references paid homage to his creative awakening. The podium itself, adorned with a jumble of artist’s easels, served as a visual reminder of the era’s artistic ferment.
Paul Smith channeled the louche charm of iconic figures like Francis Bacon and Lucian Freud, evident in details like white-painted shoes and a stunning linen smock shirt revived from a 1979 collection. The collection also featured a Freudian-inspired pairing of tailored jackets over carpenter’s pants, a highlight of the Lee collaboration.
While the designer’s musical tastes leaned towards jazz in his youth (having witnessed the legendary Miles Davis and Georgie Fame perform at The Flamingo Club), the collection undeniably riffed on classic menswear tropes. Embroidered shawl collar evening wear pieces, particularly popular at his Los Angeles store, exemplified this improvisational spirit. Pops of vibrant color, like a turquoise field jacket and a sunshine yellow Harrington, punctuated the collection, adding playful counterpoints to the checked trenches and striped shirts, a fresh take on the brand’s signature motif.