Moschino’s Spring 2025 collection, unveiled during Milan Fashion Week, was a delightful exploration of self-discovery and playful fashion. Designer Adrian Appiolaza took viewers on a whimsical adventure, using a unique “lost and found luggage” theme to represent a “journey of discovery and exploration, moving from a chaotic life toward a paradise chosen.”
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The show itself was a visual feast. The venue, a large industrial location in Milan, was piled high with mismatched suitcases, both modern and vintage, creating a sense of delightful disarray. This served as a metaphor for the collection itself, where classic silhouettes were playfully deconstructed and reimagined.
Appiolaza, a firm believer in the power of self-expression, used Moschino as a platform to build characters who explore, lose themselves in the process, and ultimately find a fresh perspective. This theme of freedom resonated throughout the collection, with a healthy dose of Moschino’s signature playfulness.
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The designer’s own background added a charming layer to the presentation. Appiolaza’s first job back in Argentina was at an insurance company – a fact reflected in a papery suit that met its demise in a whimsical shredding machine. This experience, with its regimented dress code, fueled his desire for creative freedom, a desire evident in the collection’s whimsical touches like brooches shaped like fried eggs and trompe l’oeil pin-striped jackets that were actually shirts.
Taking inspiration from Moschino’s heritage, Appiolaza revived the iconic “survival jacket” from 1992, updating it for the modern city dweller. This practical yet playful garment boasted pockets overflowing with essentials like hand sanitizer, notepads, and pens.
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Appiolaza’s belief in genderless fashion was beautifully showcased. The collection transcended traditional boundaries, with models transitioning from cityscapes to a whimsical countryside. One sported a pizza clutch, another wore a tomato sauce-stained t-shirt – both imbued with a sense of lighthearted fun.
Freedom truly took center stage with the introduction of outdoor-inspired pieces. The signature Moschino patchwork was also evident, with contrasting colors and playful prints. Appiolaza didn’t neglect accessories either, offering a delightful range of playful options – from Minnie Mouse-inspired pumps to heart-shaped attaché cases and banana brooches.
While Moschino is known for its quirky spirit, Appiolaza understands the importance of commercial viability. He cleverly balanced the show-stopping pieces with elegant, wearable designs. It’s a solid and promising debut for Moschino’s menswear line by Appiolaza, brimming with playful details and a healthy dose of Moschino’s signature fun, without venturing into overwhelming eccentricity.
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