Marine Serre‘s unwavering commitment to social commentary and sustainable fashion took center stage once again, this time against the breathtaking backdrop of the Tuscan hills. Her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled “Sempre Legati” (Always Connected), showcased a dynamic expansion of her signature style, venturing beyond her Parisian roots and into the realm of couture and womenswear alongside the anticipated menswear pieces.
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Eight years since her impactful graduate collection, “Radical Call For Love,” a response to the tragic attacks in Paris and Brussels, Serre continues to be a powerful voice in fashion. While her core message of hope and unity remains present, as evidenced by the closing recycled t-shirt dress referencing her debut, her creative vocabulary has broadened significantly.
Originally intended to be her first entirely menswear presentation, the allure of the Pitti Uomo location in Florence proved irresistible. The exquisite Villa di Maiano served as a stunning runway, with models traversing a terrace overlooking the Tuscan sunset, their silhouettes competing for attention with the swallows flitting through the dappled sky.
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This shift in location mirrored a shift in the collection itself. Marine Serre’s signature focus on everyday wear, meticulously crafted in Paris, expanded to embrace a more theatrical flair. The show opened with a voluminous black moire silk skirt paired with a unique chest piece constructed from vintage jewelry, setting the tone for a collection that danced between the familiar and the unexpected.
Menswear formed the heart of the collection, with two distinct tailoring silhouettes taking center stage. Double-breasted, cinched suits offered a defined and powerful look, while single-breasted, boxy jackets exuded a more relaxed strength. Scarlet and black played a recurring theme, punctuating tailored looks and finding a home in sleek leather garments designed for both men and women. The Tuscan backdrop seemed to inspire a cinematic quality in Serre’s vision, with a focus on bold statements and dramatic silhouettes.
However, the collection remained unmistakably Marine Serre. Her signature airbrushed leather pieces gleamed under the Italian sun, while a meshed bodysuit adorned with her iconic crescent moon motif served as a powerful reminder of her core values. Sustainability remained at the forefront, with many of the closing all-white looks crafted from upcycled embroidered bed sheets. The designer’s versatile scarf designs took on new life as trench coats, liner coats, and even a trompe l’oeil scarf dress. Upcycled materials continued to play a starring role, with menswear shirting fashioned from German tote bags and tennis bags, their collars boasting a wingspan that rivaled the swallows overhead.
The combination of the stunning location, the live band’s energy, and the innovative collection itself marked a captivating new chapter in the Marine Serre story. While her work is undeniably Parisian at its core, this temporary relocation to the idyllic Tuscan hills undeniably enhanced her vision, infusing it with a touch of theatricality and a renewed sense of boundless creativity.
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