For Simon Porte Jacquemus, the setting for his Fall/Winter 2024 runway show couldn’t have been more symbolic. Held on the picturesque island of Capri, the event marked the 15th anniversary of the JACQUEMUS label, and the location chosen was none other than Casa Malaparte – the very villa that inspired Jacquemus to launch his brand after watching Le Mépris from Jean-Luc Godard.
A historic landmark perched on a dramatic cliff, Casa Malaparte served as a stunning backdrop for a collection that was equal parts homage and evolution. Guests, including celebrities such as Dua Lipa and Gwyneth Paltrow, were transported to the venue by private boat, their arrival adding a touch of glamour to an already momentous occasion.
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As the show began, models ascended a series of 99 steps, their movements mirroring the brand’s steady rise over the past decade and a half. The first look set the tone for the collection – a luxurious robe suggesting post-swim indulgence, paired with tailored gray separates and a vibrant teal headscarf. This playful juxtaposition of luxury and leisure became a recurring theme throughout the show.
The JACQUEMUS signature was evident in the bold use of color – a rich blue found in leather bags, belts and a stunning deep V sweater, while oversized zebra print bermuda shorts and classic navy stripes brought a nautical flair to the collection.
Sculpture, a cornerstone of Jacquemus’ design philosophy (remember the Giacometti-inspired “Les Sculptures” Spring 2024 line?), remained a key element. Cone-shaped dresses, wool coats with dramatic lapels, and tops that blossomed around the waist like rigid works of art showcased the designer’s talent for creating wearable art.
Accessories took center stage with the return of the label’s iconic Pochette Rond Carré handbags and the introduction of round tote bags and zebra loafers. The final look, a black dress with a flowing skirt worn by K-pop star Jennie Kim, served as a fitting culmination of the collection, a harmonious blend of elegance and playfulness.
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