Hedi Slimane, CELINE‘s artistic and image director, has never been one to shy away from drama. This season, he transported viewers to the austere beauty of the Mojave Desert with a riveting 14-minute film to present the Fall/Winter 2024 CELINE Men’s collection.
The presentation was set to Hector Berlioz’s powerful “Symphonie Fantastique,” a piece that has resonated with Slimane since childhood. The melancholy yet stirring music perfectly complemented the collection’s color palette – a predominantly black, white and gray base punctuated by flashes of gold and silver. Slimane himself described it as a “return” to his signature tailoring, with the familiar whip-thin silhouettes taking on a more formal and gentlemanly air.
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The movie opens with a scene reminiscent of Francis Ford Coppola’s Apocalypse Now. A fleet of black helicopters descends into the desert, not in a show of force, but to deliver a CELINE-branded jukebox to a lonely stretch of road. This whimsical touch sets the tone for a collection that is both dramatic and surprisingly fresh.
As the helicopters fade away, a motorcade of vintage black Cadillacs appears, followed by an array of models striding down the desert highway. Their attire exudes a sense of solitary elegance, with some sporting wide-brimmed preacher hats that add a touch of gothic flair.
Despite the seemingly somber mood, there’s an undeniable youthful energy running through the collection. Slimane’s jackets are slim and cropped, with sleeves that reveal a sliver of wrist. Crisp white collars peek out from underneath the jackets, accented by skinny ties or strings tied in a narrow bow.
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Inspired by “1960s tailoring inspired by 19th-century Anglomania,” Slimane uses intricate details that are difficult to fully appreciate on film. Frock coats, three-button suits and hand-embroidered waistcoats made from luxurious materials such as silk, cashmere and vicuna hint at the craftsmanship behind the collection.
A true fashion maverick, Slimane continues to defy convention by presenting his collections outside of the traditional runway schedule. While the intricacies of the garments may not be fully visible on film, his reputation as a leading menswear designer precedes him. This collection, set to hit stores in mid-July, promises a fresh take on classic tailoring with a touch of rock ‘n’ roll rebellion.
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True to his directorial vision, Slimane leaves viewers with a sense of anticipation. Bolts of metallic fabric – glittering gold or silver-studded coats – appear as unexpected bursts of glamour on the desolate highway. A hooded cape adorned with black sequins adds a final touch of drama, perfect for the artist, the romantic, or anyone seeking a truly unforgettable entrance.