Glenn Martens, the creative mind behind Y/Project, returns for a second collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, exploring the world of trompe l’œil prints to create a visually captivating ready-to-wear collection. After his initial guest couturier appearance in January 2022, Martens dives into the art of illusion with a range of pieces that blend iconic Gaultier designs with his own contemporary flair.
The innovative collection showcases Martens’ ability to merge distinct garments into one cohesive design. Utilizing knit-enhanced mesh, the pieces give the illusion of various clothing items spliced together, such as jean jackets combined with sailor shirts, wader jeans superimposed on narrow skirts, and lacy lingerie floating atop slipdresses. These enigmatic designs challenge the traditional boundaries of fashion, offering a fresh perspective on ready-to-wear clothing.
In addition to women’s wear, Martens has also designed eye-catching pieces for men. From T-shirts with belt-encircled jeans prints to tailored coats that imply briefs and bare legs, the collection speaks to Martens’ avant-garde approach to menswear. These unique designs demonstrate how trompe l’oeil can be used to create a bold and unexpected statement for both men and women.
Following Gaultier’s retirement from the runway in January 2020, Martens was selected as the second guest couturier after Sacai‘s Chitose Abe. This collaboration marks a full-circle moment for Martens, who began his career at Gaultier after graduating from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 2008. By incorporating trompe l’oeil, Martens continues the tradition of Gaultier’s innovative couture, such as the 1996 “Cyberbaba” collection, which featured body parts printed on unconventional garments.
As creative director at Diesel in Italy and founder of Y/Project, Martens is known for his eclectic and contrasting design approach. Drawing inspiration from classical tailoring, streetwear, and even Flemish Old Masters, he is renowned for his avant-garde silhouettes and exaggerated, twisting volumes. His recent Y/Project collection for Fall 2023 further demonstrates his innovative spirit with garments made from shredded denim and photo-printed shredded denim pieces.
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The much-anticipated trompe l’œil collaboration between Glenn Martens and Jean Paul Gaultier is available on the e-stores of both brands, as well as through select retailers. Prices range from 320 euros for T-shirts to 1,290 euros for long, tailored jackets, offering fashion enthusiasts the opportunity to invest in a unique piece of wearable art.
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