Glenn Martens has revealed his Y/Project Fall 2023 collection, and it’s a collection filled with a mix of emotions. Martens, was inspired by the famous aria Lascia ch’io pianga from composer Handel. The lyrics, filled with pain and sorrow, also carry a serene and solemn tone, which is reflected in the collection.
For the first time, the brand has incorporated embroidery into their designs, with sweatshirts, jersey dresses, and tweed coats adorned with embellishments made from the same material. The collection also features large caftans and adaptable bombers and coats, creating a majestic feel.
The theatrical touch of the collection is imbued with irony, referencing the prelude of Antichrist by Lars von Trier, and is further emphasized by the screenshots of pornographic films printed on silk or jersey dresses, skirts, and tops. This playful spirit is also found in the multi-collared shirts and iron-inserted outfits that have become Y/Project essentials, as well as a white chiffon dress with a twistable neckline.
The collection also features a new model of boots, covered with leather or denim panels, and an adaptable shape thanks to snap buttons. The “Paris Best” print, a reference to the Y/Project denim jacket, is embroidered on denim bags, while another bag design is made of leather and inserted with wires.
The collection also includes jewelry that reproduces hand signs, a gesture of complicity, unity, and individuality. The soundtrack of the show, created by Senjan Jansen, is a remix of 58 different interpretations of Lascia ch’io pianga, further emphasizing the collection’s emotional tone.
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