Pierpaolo Piccioli found inspiration for his Valentino Fall 2023 collection last year in a surprising fact: his teenage daughter Stella. When he discovered that she had taken one of his suits and styled it with a shirt and tie, he was struck by the idea that even classic, traditional pieces could be seen as new and exciting to a younger generation. This idea became the foundation for Piccioli’s latest collection for Valentino, which showcased a range of outfits all built around the shirt and tie.
The white shirt was a recurring theme throughout the collection, appearing in various colors, but always as a symbol of sophistication and elegance. Piccioli explored the many different moods and associations that come with a necktie, from school uniforms to ska bands, and showed that when worn in a personal way, a necktie can become much more than just a symbol of power and masculinity.
The designer’s cast was young and edgy, with models sporting winged eyeliner, neck tattoos, and piercings, adding a punk vibe to the show. The tailoring was generous, with overcoats and peacoats for both men and women, some in racing-flag intarsias and others covered in polka dots. The highlight of the collection, however, were the shirts – some voluminous, others sinuous and accented with sequins and feathers, transforming plain white shirts into black-tie material.
Piccioli added a unique touch to the show by enlisting Massive Attack founder Robert Del Naja to create an original soundtrack, adding an exciting energy to the already impressive display. The show was held at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, and before the first model hit the runway, Interview editor in chief Mel Ottenberg asked various VIP attendees on camera if they knew how to tie a necktie.
When asked when he last wore a necktie, Piccioli thought for a moment before answering, “A long time ago, actually.” Despite this, he expertly showcased the timeless appeal and versatility of the shirt and tie, proving that even a classic piece can be transformed into something new and exciting.
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