There’s a certain freshness in the air, and it’s not just because spring has made its glorious return. TOD’S Creative Director, Walter Chiapponi, breathed new life into the fashion realm with the captivating release of the brand’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection. This innovative ensemble took center stage in a greenhouse pavilion, nestled against the striking backdrop of Villa Necchi, thereby setting the pace for a transformative exploration of fashion’s relationship with nature.
Chiapponi’s novel approach this season reveals his yearning to explore beyond the conventional, discarding the comfortable familiarity of previous collections. His newfound penchant for natural fabrics—wool, linen, and cotton—was as intriguing as it was daring, forming an eclectic foundation for the collection. By adopting these earthy materials, Chiapponi not only paid homage to nature’s raw beauty but also masterfully managed to balance them against the so-called ‘severe elegance’ of his increasingly minimalist designs.
In his desire to redefine elegance, Chiapponi took a leap back in time, drawing inspiration from the iconic aesthetic of the 1960s, paying particular tribute to legendary filmmaker Michelangelo Antonioni. This influence manifests itself in the strategic inclusion of geometrical patterns that cast fascinating shadow effects across the apparel, revealing a tantalizing interplay of light and texture.
“I want to move away from my comfort zone,” declared Chiapponi. This desire is perhaps most vividly embodied in his daring decision to scale back on leather apparel, a staple material long associated with TOD’S. This bold move saw the inclusion of a single mint green leather jacket—a piece so delicately crafted that “you almost can’t tell it’s leather.”
Relaxed tailoring, combined with warm tones of brown and ecru, imparts a casual elegance to the collection. Field jackets in structured cotton, nylon and fabric bomber jackets, short, light cabans and anorak windbreakers further enhance this laid-back aura, cementing Chiapponi’s vision of an effortless sophistication that doesn’t compromise on style.
The Spring/Summer 2024 Collection bears testament to TOD’S unparalleled craftsmanship, showcased brilliantly through the innovative accessories on display. The curled-toe moccasins, ankle boots hand-ruched on the vamp, and the Greca rope belt sans buckle, bear the unmistakable stamp of the brand’s expertise. “I like to be a little snob with this brand—it allows me to be so,” Chiapponi mused, revealing the unique blend of humility and confidence that has characterized his tenure as Creative Director.
An homage to the past while striking forward into the future, the collection also brought forth the reinvention of the ‘60s-inspired Tab sneakers and the Riviera slip-on with tasteful tassels. They represent a shift from the active to the lifestyle, embodying an understated classiness that distinguishes TOD’S from its contemporaries.
Last but not least, TOD’S commitment to quality and the art of fine craftsmanship is encapsulated in its signature Di Bag. Presented in a range of sizes and models—from the discreetly compact to the spacious weekender—these men’s bags are so exquisitely crafted that they’re bound to find favor with the discerning tastes of women, too.
In embracing change while staying true to its roots, TOD’S Spring/Summer 2024 collection reaffirms the brand’s unwavering commitment to style, innovation, and the enduring power of timeless elegance.
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