The Fall/Winter 2023 collection, called “Waterboys”, from designer Steven Passaro is a reflection of the designer’s personal connection to water and the emotions it evokes. As a Pisces, Passaro has always had a strong relationship with Adam’s Ale – Adam’s ale is a colloquial allusion meaning water – and he wanted to explore this connection in his latest collection.
The collection is inspired by the idea of water as a metaphor for emotions. Just as water can take on many forms and change circumstances, emotions can also be calm and peaceful or turbulent and wild. This duality is reflected in the collection’s signature style, which features a sharp cut with delicate fabrics and refined details.
Passaro drew inspiration from 18th-century Romanticism, an art movement that focuses on emotion and imagination. He was particularly inspired by the works of Caspar Friedrich, whose paintings explore the relationship between nature, humanity, and the divine, and often feature symbolic elements and an exploration of the human psyche.
The collection features prints and shapes inspired by German photographer Caroline Koenigs’ artwork, translated into knitted jacquard. A deconstructed jacket with an open chest and tulle plissé suggests waves crashing onto the shores. Throughout the collection, Passaro showcases his mastery of haute couture techniques, with hand-sewn embroidery, leather embellishment, and organza silk layering.
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