As we gradually shift gears and stride into the future, one cannot overlook the significance of our past – the lessons, the wisdom, and even the quirks that define who we are and what we create. The rag & bone Spring/Summer 2024 collection – a blend of contemporary style and traditional tailoring – is a testament to that narrative. It’s a collection that draws inspiration from generations past, leveraging familial wisdom and pushing boundaries to redefine modern menswear. The creative force behind the brand, Marcus Wainwright, guides us through this journey, threading the past into the present with a tailored finesse.
In a world where the fashion industry seems to be constantly reinventing itself, rag & bone resurfaces with a unique perspective that intersects the familiar and the futuristic. The collection looks more formal than its pre-pandemic predecessor but does so without losing sight of the comfort, a value Wainwright cherishes, evidenced by his frequent recollection of his grandfather’s axiom, “Any fool can be uncomfortable.“
Highlighting this confluence of style and comfort, Wainwright points to a shirt adorned with eagles mid-flight across the torso. A distinct shift from past casual attire, the shirt is paired with voluminous pleated trousers, a striking image reminiscent of Bryan Ferry’s style in the 1980s. This juxtaposition of nostalgia and novelty forms the backbone of rag & bone’s SS24 collection, where even suits take on a modern sensibility.
And what does modern sensibility look like, you might ask? It’s a reinvention of traditional tailoring, a departure from “your grandfather’s tailoring,” as Wainwright puts it. Suits with drawstring waists, jackets with zip fronts replacing fussy buttons, matching jacket-and-shorts sets in graphic jacquard that’s almost monogram-like, all layered over a silk button-down. These design details elevate rag & bone’s collection, providing a fresh yet nostalgic feel that’s more dandyish than recent times, yet maintains the comfort factor, the core essence of the brand.
In the midst of these innovations, one cannot ignore the familial wisdom embedded in the collection. The designer’s heritage is interwoven throughout, from the interpretation of his grandfather’s favorite phrase, “RTFM” – an acronym for “read the fucking manual” – which is symbolic of the level of detail and intention applied in crafting each piece.
© Photos: rag & bone
Click on this link to read this article in French version