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As the waves of the fashion industry continue to ebb and flow, there emerges an interesting occurrence in the midst of the transition from one creative director to the next. The period between their reigns, a time of suspenseful anticipation, is often treated as a moment of opportunity for critique by observers who might otherwise choose to remain silent. Such is the case with Moschino Resort 2024, as it sails through the uncertainties left in the wake of Jeremy Scott’s successful tenure. However, in the ever-evolving world of fashion, a ship sans a captain does not necessarily denote a lost vessel.
The latest menswear collection from Moschino, in fact, remains afloat, navigating the vast ocean of sartorial art with a certain charm and distinct identity that still sparks interest. Without an overtly stated mission, the collection manages to stand on its own, asserting an interesting blend of opposites, reminiscent of Moschino‘s signature ironic twist.
The collection finds itself embodying a curious amalgamation of traditionally refined corsetry and disrupted tailoring. Classic floral designs from the Moschino archives are used as a contrast on body-conforming tops, coupled with tailored pieces presented with an off-kilter slant—think skewed multi-collared shirts and ties worn unconventionally back-to-front. This seemingly erratic combination, instead of clashing, creates an innovative expression of rebellion that speaks to the modern, rule-breaking gentleman.
The journey of the collection continues through a safari-camp theme, but with an added pinch of camp-camp aesthetics for good measure. Beige explorer separates and knits, a staple of the explorer aesthetic, are reimagined with a spontaneous splash of paint embroidery, a delightful surprise adding character to the ensemble.
Floral motifs don’t merely exist as prints in this collection; they burst into the third dimension, taking shape as charm-studded chains adorning necklines and waists. The juxtaposition of classically solemn Prince of Wales tailoring, amplified to an oversized silhouette reminiscent of a ‘Brideshead Revisited’ aesthetic, against the vibrant, wrapped sash silk shirts and corduroy Bermudas in aggressive aquamarine hues is a spectacle worth beholding.
While it may not be hailed as a groundbreaking masterpiece or dismissed as a fashion disaster, the Moschino Resort 2024 collection holds its ground. It possesses a number of standout pieces, like an impressively oversized biker jacket, that make a compelling case for the collection’s longevity past this moment of transition.
As Moschino sails through this interregnum, this collection underlines that, even without a captain at the helm, the ship can stay its course, producing pieces that intrigue, challenge, and ultimately command the attention of its audience. The Moschino Resort 2024 collection serves as a testament to the enduring spirit of the fashion house and its ability to navigate through the uncertain tides of change.
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Click on this link to read this article in French version