Francesco Risso, Creative Director of Marni, recently staged a presentation for the brand’s second “touring show” in Tokyo, in a gymnasium designed by Kenzo Tange for the 1964 Olympics. The location was significant for both the brand and the designer, as Japan accounts for 23% of Marni’s total sales and provided a sense of refreshment and calmness after the hectic pace of New York and Europe.
For the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Risso showcased the quirkiness that is synonymous with Marni, with a mix of bright colors, bold graphics, and playful silhouettes. The silhouettes ranged from figure-forming to rounded and dramatic, with oversized tailoring appearing on blazers and coats. Knitwear was a staple, featuring puffed-up mohair sweaters, duvet-like coats, billowing pants, and delicate dresses.
Polka dots, reminiscent of Yayoi Kusama’s work, and simple grid patterns were central motifs in the collection. Square-shouldered dresses and sharply-cut coats were paired with casually-draped puffers and rounded tops. Risso stated that the collection was about rewiring Marni’s classics and giving them the most love possible, with a contrast between rigor and creativity. The result was a harmonious symphony of design elements that conveyed emotion through both form and function.
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