As the sun sets over Paris, illuminating the gay-friendly district of the Marais, and the night is young and vibrant, the true magic unfolds. An enchanting fashion saga spun by Ludovic de Saint Sernin at his Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show, an evocative tribute to the beauty of queer desire, joy, and power.
The balmy Parisian evening was as radiant as the beautifully toned bodies that shimmered under the heat. Pulsating beats of Four Tet’s energetic house track set the rhythm, yet, this was not a night at Cox or Raidd bars. It was the much-anticipated stage for Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s spring 2024 collection reveal, which indeed lived up to the expectations.
The runway was set in the courtyard of the Musée des Archives Nationales, with models making their presence felt, striking a chord between audacious and exquisite. Transparent shirts, with only sleeves and a collar remaining, teased and tantalized, while others flaunted a strip of bare skin, too chic to ever be fully buttoned. Yet, by de Saint Sernin’s bold standards, the show held an air of relative moderation. A sprinkle of man skirts reminiscent of loin-cloths mingled with easily likable jeans jackets, flared pants, appealing leather pieces, and shirts that proudly buttoned up.
The collection told a tale of a summer holiday, invoking sensual desire, mirroring a languid poolside afternoon with just-out-of-the-pool hair, glistening deltoids, and a warm palette reminiscent of the sultry, dusty shades of summer. Espadrilles added the right touch of laid-back luxury, completing the perfect holiday wardrobe.
And if you thought Ludovic was only about celebrating masculinity, the inclusion of female models in lingerie-inspired mermaid dresses, long fishtail skirts—a delightful nod to his brief but noteworthy tenure at Ann Demeulemeester—made a compelling case for his fluid design philosophy. It was the same styles, the same lustful elegance but worn by women this time.
In his press notes, the designer described his collection as a “celebration of queer desire, joy, and power” that transcends the clichéd portrayals of queer expression, presenting a wardrobe steeped in “libidinal elegance.” In his words, the narrative was clear and powerful: “Dare to be yourself. I think that’s the most beautiful message,” the designer echoed backstage.
© Photos : Ludovic de Saint Sernin
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