Jonathan Anderson’s LOEWE Fall/Winter 2023 collection is a refreshing take on the fashion industry’s current trend of grand productions and entertainment. He believes from his side that it’s enough to put clothes and speculative thinking about them first. He chooses to showcase his collection in a stripped-back way, in the traditional manner, with a file of models walking around a white space. He hopes that we’re going into a period where it is about being uncomfortable in design, that we are trying to find something new.
Anderson’s collection was about exaggerating the materiality of fashion fabrication into the realms of pure-lined 3D sculpture, full metal jackets beaten by artisans from copper and pewter, stand away structured coats molded by hat-makers. He wanted to create the idea of something which is quite sensual underneath, with something quite hard. Some of the models wore angel wings, a reference to the iconography of old masters painters, specifically, the work of the French romantic allegories of Pierre-Paul Prud’hon and the link Anderson has made with the American young contemporary artist Julien Nguyen.
The collection was a brilliant example of how the subject of clothes can be multi-layered but startlingly focused on clarity, what Anderson calls “a reductionist act.” He has proven that there’s nothing more absorbing and mentally exciting than simply being able to react to the meanings of what’s before you and to witness configurations of stuff you’ve never quite seen before. The collection was a mix of avant-garde sculpture and pared-back, on-the-money Loewe desirables, long, slimline coats in leather, and the reiterated wool shapes with deeply plunging cowl necklines. The collection was simple but extraordinary, the designer felt that arriving at that coat had hit the quintessential mark. He believes that by getting that one look, it helps to create a narrative throughout the show, and there’s something in that it says everything and nothing at the same time.
You maybe interest to read:
Click on this link to read this article in French version.