Kiko Kostadinov has once again defied the traditional framework of menswear fashion with his Spring/Summer 2024 collection. This artful, esoteric array promises to deliver a refreshing splash of boldness and character in a sea of spectacle. Kostadinov’s latest showcase offers a nuanced narrative of form and function, skillfully interweaving his inspirations from Italian cinema with innovative techniques in tailoring. It’s not just about clothes, it’s about the story they tell and the characters they portray, truly a journey worth embarking on.
For Kiko Kostadinov, fashion design transcends mere clothing and transforms into a language of self-expression. His Spring/Summer 2024 collection follows suit, serving as an artistic response to the menswear season that has been awash with spectacle and drama. This array of subtly bold pieces carries an undercurrent of the designer’s commitment to making garments that speak to the individual’s persona and taste.
The collection found its eclectic muse in Pier Paolo Pasolini’s short film, “La Ricotta“, an abstract spectacle that provided a wealth of references to inform the line-up’s structure, color palette, and the overall portrayal of masculinity. Kostadinov’s adroit translation of the black-and-white scenes of the film results in sections that are darker, enriched with a tinge of evening-ready elegance. On the other hand, the vibrant strokes of yellow, teal, and pink punctuating the collection seem to echo the film’s saturated color scenes.
The true heart of Kostadinov’s collection lies in the attention to detail seen in the innovative tailoring and knitwear techniques employed. The unique double-breasted jacket, with an oversized shirt collar taking the place of a conventional lapel, reflects Kostadinov’s playful audacity. Other examples include a pleated black coat and a white button-down shirt – worn as a jacket – with duplicated plackets. From multi-pleated trousers to satin-detailed shawl collar jackets, every piece showcases a lively reinterpretation of traditional tailoring.
The highlight of this collection, however, is a series of jersey tops, meticulously crafted with 15 darts. The organic draping showcases Kostadinov’s aptitude for manipulating surfaces while ensuring wearability. He shared, “For every garment I work on, the goal is to delete the origin of it,” highlighting the transformative thought process that gives his creations an avant-garde edge in a fashion season saturated with tailoring.
The designer’s appreciation for the spatial work of American artist Tom Burr is another inspiring layer in the narrative of this collection. Burr’s work is seen to influence the surface manipulation techniques, tacking, draping, and darting, and recontextualizing the liminal space between the show, backstage, and its influences.
© Photos : KIKO KOSTADINOV
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