The Fall/Winter 2023 collection from designer Kiko Kostadinov was a true spectacle, paying tribute to several overlooked influences in women’s fashion design.
Taking inspiration from French designer Anne-Marie Beretta, Italian fashion icon Mariuccia Mandelli, American costume designer Irene Lentz, and the Roman sisters Sorelle Fontana, Kostadinov aimed to shed light on female pioneers who have been overshadowed by more well-known names in the industry.
The designer explained that the initial concept was to explore women’s fashion brands and designers from the 1980s that have been largely forgotten. He imagined a group of students discovering a retrospective on these designers and using that as inspiration to create their own collection. The models in the show were meant to embody those students, modeling the clothes with pride and showcasing the beauty of these overlooked designers.
Kostadinov put his own spin on the designs, incorporating elements such as Beretta-like pocketing details and Krizia-like pleating, buckles and prints. He also drew inspiration from his own personal history, incorporating his grandmother’s colorful decoupage onto knits and accessories.
The garments themselves were a combination of elegance and boldness, made from fabrics such as wool, corduroy, and cotton, and featuring creative constructions in vivid colors. One standout look included an orange sleeveless dress with grass green fabric on the shoulders, paired with banana yellow and black lace-up boots. Another look featured roomy fuchsia breeches worn with a raspberry-hued shirt and a brown and beige hooded capelet. The collection also included belted skirts and reimagined suiting, with striped cotton lapels.
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