Unraveling the threads of the KIDILL Spring/Summer 2024 collection, we can clearly discern the intricate weave of designer Hiroaki Sueyasu’s thought process: one that is rebellious, raw, and unapologetically punk. Sueyasu’s latest collection is a homage to the punk ethos, which to him is not merely a style, but a powerful and palpable state of mind, a continuous creation rooted in authenticity and instinct.
In a world where the line between good and evil is blurred, where uncertainty lurks around every corner and society teems with faceless individuals, Sueyasu finds solace in the return of senses, in rebellion untainted by malicious intent. The SS24 collection is a testament to this, a vibrant demonstration of his return to the very essence of craftsmanship, unique and irreplaceable, untamed by the digital world’s algorithmic demands.
Sueyasu, in his creation, reveres the beauty of being “a minority of the whole.” Drawing inspiration from diverse yet equally defiant entities, the hardcore youth culture enthusiasts, bearers of anarchism, creators of cult art, music, and the London punk boys who dared to interrupt a tasteless scene, Sueyasu’s collection is imbued with the spirit of these “heretics.” Their attempts to carve a new niche in the world reflect in Sueyasu’s designs, portraying dissent, ties, and an indomitable spirit.
The SS24 collection further expands the realm of punk ideology, breaking free from the classical Parisian fashion theology. The “minority spirit,” along with the study of satanism, informs the designs’ aesthetics, translating into the collection’s distinct graphics, textiles, and handcrafted headpieces.
Deeply inspired by the misunderstood “witches” from the 16th to the 18th century, at the center of the Moral Panic movement, Sueyasu brings their struggle to light. They were seen as deviant, a threat to societal norms, oppressed under the monarchy, yet they managed to form resilient communities, sharing secrets “known only to the known.” This extraordinary life force is echoed in Sueyasu’s work, linking it to the Boro technique of patching pieces together for protection against harsh weather.
In the spirit of these “heretics,” Sueyasu forges ahead, embracing the “value of heresy” as the guiding beacon for his brand’s future. His SS24 collection is a manifestation of this determination, a reflection of his resolve to continue challenging the norm, even at the risk of being a minority. Ultimately, Sueyasu’s work is more than fashion; it is a rebellion, a fight for freedom, a tribute to resilience. It is punk in its purest form.
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