Jil Sander, under the creative direction of Lucie and Luke Meier, continues to push the boundaries of fashion by blending seemingly opposing aesthetic elements. Their collections showcase a harmonious tension between technique and attitude, research and immediacy, and sportswear and glamour.
The silhouette is relaxed and elongated, with flared jackets featuring round shoulders and generous sleeves and lapels, or no lapels at all. Trousers are either long and wide with reversed pleating, or short and worn with high boots. The variety of shapes, constructions, and details in the overcoats highlight the wide spectrum of the collection, from the utilitarian to the sartorial.
Innovative details are present throughout the collection, such as a zipper fastening a classic cape in black cashmere, or a substantial coat in shiny papery leather with a high contrasting collar. The menswear and womenswear seamlessly merge, with a soft, round-shouldered dust coat featuring short, ample sleeves and an amber duffle coat with a large hood and contrasting black buttons.
The use of soft and supple materials is prominent, with shirts featuring high, removable or foulard collars and a gradient floral print. Cashmere pullovers have enveloping round shapes or are cropped below the chest, with very long sleeves. The expressive capabilities of knitwear are constantly pushed to new levels of sophistication.
Jil Sander’s new idea of the suit subverts traditional uniforms by substituting jackets with tailored wool shirts and shirt-jackets. The brand’s thorough choice and diversity of materials are always at the forefront, with a bold color palette that mixes classic and new shades such as white, butter, ice, pale lilac, green, beige, gray, bright blue, pale and bright yellow, orange, raspberry, cocoa, violet, petrol, and black.
The union of sport and glamour is further emphasized through the use of hand-hammered silver jewelry, matte inflated sneakers, colorful voluminous tote bags and gym bags, and a new enlarged version of the signature Cannolo handbag.
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