Jil Sander Fall 2023 latest collection, presented by creative directors Luke and Lucie Meier, marked a departure from the brand’s usual minimalist aesthetic. The Meiers looked back to the 90s and 2000s, a formative period in their journey, and incorporated elements of urban attitude and couture accents. The collection blurred the boundaries between sportswear and tailoring, natural and synthetic materials, and artisanal and digital embellishments.
The Meiers added a lyrical component to the collection, which was described as “quite personal.” They explored their motivations for designing and went down memory lane to the late 90s, a time of cultural mixture and information sharing. Luke Meier, who was in New York at the time, particularly referenced Björk’s music, which was included in the show’s soundtrack.
The collection featured sculptural leather pieces with embossed and padded details, elongated and oversized proportions, and graphic silhouettes. The designers updated traditional tailored pieces with zippers to expand their volumes and create a sense of ease. Windbreakers, anoraks, and pants in lightweight technical fabrics added to the utilitarian vibe, while fuzzy sweaters with metallic effects and zebra prints added a touch of couture.
The Meiers exercised their individuality with airy parachute dresses embellished with crushed metal flowers and tunics and tees digitally printed with fruits and bonbons. The bags were stamped with fruit designs, like sweet tins, inviting the wearer to embrace a sense of optimism.
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