Jan-Jan Van Essche made his runway debut at the Pitti Uomo event in Florence, where he showcased his Fall/Winter 2023 unisex collection “Rite”.
The show, which was held in the striking 13th-century Santa Maria Novella and in the adjacent frescoed cloister and also featured a ballet performance, conveyed a sense of tranquility through Van Essche’s designs.
The Antwerp-based designer stated that he was not trying to reinvent the wheel, but rather reworking traditional menswear elements with subtle changes. The collection included flowing silhouettes, elongated tunic shirts, jumpsuits transformed into sophisticated two-piece attire, and wide-legged suits. He sourced most of his fabrics from Japan, including shibori plaid pattern woolens, which were hand-dyed by specialist masters. He also incorporated materials like yak wool from Mongolia, and bincho tan-dyed cotton, which imparted a faded look to many items.
Jan-Jan Van Essche also referred to his designs as “open shapes” and was influenced by the late Issey Miyake and the Japanese fashion industry.
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