Imagine this; the sun-drenched Palace of Versailles on a summer afternoon, the Grand Canal echoing with the strains of Baroque music from the time of Louis XIV, and a fleet of petite boats lining the cerise runway adjacent to the shore. In this regal panorama, Simon Porte Jacquemus unveils his Fall 2023 collection, a blend of historic grandeur and contemporary sensibility, not just to elevate his brand, but to sculpt a theatrical memory in the minds of his guests.
The procession of fashion commenced with the arrival of VIP guests, among them Emily Ratajkowski donned in a risqué bra top and tutu, India Ria Amarteifio radiating elegance in an off-the-shoulder skirt suit, and Eva Longoria sporting a chic linen pantsuit, clutching a diminutive Chiquito bag.
As the final gowns, painted in the hues of the French tricolor, drifted by, the spectacle affirmed Jacquemus’s ability to dream up a breathtaking fashion extravaganza. He not only showcased his Fall 2023 collection but also set the stage for the brand’s international expansion, aiming to achieve a revenue target of 500 million euros by 2025.
The 2024 collection was a flirtatious nod to the flamboyance of Marie Antoinette’s Versailles court. Frothy skirts, peculiar panniered panties, and voluminous taffeta sleeves were reminiscent of the excesses of the French court, while also referencing the late Princess Diana. As Jacquemus put it, the focus was on creating a “memorable silhouette.” The designer’s choice to unveil only a third of the collection on the runway indicated a shift towards more editorial pieces, demonstrating a keen understanding of modern fashion consumption habits.
The men’s line was harder to reconcile with the overall theme, although military bombers with puffed out, rounded sleeves offered an unexpected twist. The same was seen in boxy suits paired with frothy tutus, blending masculinity and whimsy.
Not just the attires, even accessories, such as the La Pochette bag, were showcased in a balletic fashion, an ode to the performances Marie Antoinette brought to Versailles. Micro versions of bags were cleverly worn as prayer beads, displaying the designer’s adeptness in creating a buzz around his merchandise.
The runway event ended on a sweet note with waiters in tuxedos serving champagne and sugar roses, further blurring the line between fashion show and immersive theater. Embracing Versailles’s iconic status with his pop sensibility, Jacquemus successfully stayed outdoors and within the parameters of his brand’s accessibility.
A touch of Versailles, a hint of Lady Di, a splash of ballet, and an undercurrent of pop culture – the JACQUEMUS Fall/Winter 2024 collection is a vibrant tapestry, an ambitious show where historical inspiration met contemporary fashion sensibilities, thus revealing the designer’s intention to catapult his brand into a league of its own.
© Photos: JACQUEMUS
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