The HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE Spring/Summer 2024 collection tells the story of the encounter between meticulous pleating and vibrant simplicity. Entitled “Everyday, One of a Kind, Now and Hereafter,” this collection employs an unconventional approach to garment construction to deliver unique, day-to-day attire that resonates deeply with the wearer’s identity. Like turning pages in a captivating novel, every fold in this narrative offers a riveting glimpse into the pioneering spirit of fashion, transgressing the normative path.
The HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE design team has delved deeper into the roots of the brand, embracing its signature pleating technology. They breathe life into garments using a refreshing methodology that disrupts the classic tailoring process. Here, each garment is thoughtfully stitched before being transformed through pleating, overturning the traditional technique of working with pre-pleated fabrics.
In a theatrical opening at Paris’ esteemed Musée des Arts Décoratifs, a monochromatic expanse of white pleated paper unfurled across the room. Secreted within this dual layer of fabric were flat pleated shirts, metamorphosing into three-dimensional forms once adorned by models. Above the room, a chromatic spectacle unfolded as a plethora of pleated garments dangled, mirroring a sartorial rainbow.
The collection thrives in the realm of simplicity, presenting a plethora of layered silhouettes including skirts, shorts, jackets, and trousers. The color palette draws inspiration from the natural world with vibrant shades of ruby red, banana yellow, and pea green. A continuous exploration of chromatics, the brand promises to reveal new hues with each monthly product delivery.
Diverse pleating techniques are a cornerstone for Homme Plissé. The collection unveils the “Horizon” series with horizontal pleats, while the “Edge Ensemble” sub-collection introduces garments with broad accordion folds. The line also experiments with asymmetry, particularly in skirts, pairing them with matching sleeveless shirts in hues like muted gray-blue.
The collection flirts with geometry in design, featuring patterns that reflect natural landscapes. Tunics and trousers bear semblances to mountains and wind, painted in vibrant shades of orange, red, and yellow. Jackets, crafted with back vents, take cues from avian and aeronautical design, almost ready to take flight. Shirts boasting cape-like shoulders further augment this aerodynamic aesthetic.
For the lower extremities, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE introduces the Like Loafers. These shoes blend formality with comfort, crafted from stretch material, providing a more relaxed, everyday look.
© Photos : HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE
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