In the heat of a new fashion season, the Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 collection has struck a chord with its redefinition of masculinity.
Véronique Nichanian, the menswear artistic director for Hermès, presents her audacious take on the male silhouette, defying conventional expectations and steering towards a fresh, androgynous aesthetic. Her inspiration? The simple yet revolutionary concept, “Men have nice legs, too, so why not?“
Echoing her philosophy, Nichanian unveils a series of designs that intertwine the traditionally masculine with dabs of femininity. Known for her ability to seamlessly blend her personal wardrobe with her creations, Nichanian debuted her vision in a stylish military-inspired shirt that wore the colour of a smooth café au lait, coupled with crisp white jeans and flat leather sandals. These elements all spoke volumes about the direction of her collection: effortlessly stylish, unabashedly bold.
Nichanian’s designs set the catwalk ablaze with distinctly summery ensembles. The crinkly shirts, wide-leg trousers cuffed at the ankle, and flat closed-toe sandals featured buckles and nubby soles. These elements all whispered of a more relaxed and comfortable masculinity, embracing a softer summer look over the stiff, tailored tradition.
One striking item of the collection, a white jacket, danced on the line of transparency, playing with the concept of exposure and vulnerability. Printed silk shirts fluttered like fragile wings, accentuating the natural rhythm of the models as they sauntered down the luminous runway within the sweltering Palais d’Iéna.
Colour played a crucial role in narrating the story of this collection. The selection was a soothing symphony of gentle and earthy hues: an ice white cropped leather jacket echoed the purity of summer skies, a mocha trench served as a nod to earthy elegance, and an anorak shimmered with a green iridescence reminiscent of a jewel beetle’s wings.
The star of the show, however, were the shorts – a bold parade in cotton poplin, technical mesh, lambskin and calfskin. These shorts, fearlessly short, were paired with striped shirts and cotton jackets, or with technical hoodie tops and chunky sandals. The pairing suggested a nod to the sporty individuals who revel in the summer spirit, unafraid to flaunt their legs.
© Photos: Hermès
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