Hermès deviated from its traditional aesthetic with a Fall 2023 collection that exuded sexiness and a hint of edge.
Creative director Véronique Nichanian presented a lineup of leather pieces, including wide-legged black calfskin pants, calfskin jackets, deerskin blousons, and a stunning black cardigan top in lamb shearling. To add an element of surprise, the collection incorporated elements of role-playing, such as a gray leather overcoat with a fireman’s jacket fastening and a navy pea coat patched with calfskin.
Models wore triple monk strap boots or sneakers and carried a variety of Hermès’ signature bags in different sizes and materials, including the HAC (Haut à courroies) bags in Barénia Faubourg calfskin, mat crocodile, Fjord cowhide, and Togo calfskin. Nichanian added a touch of bling with models sporting earrings and chains in white gold and diamond named Chaos Fancy, as well as leather necklaces with gleaming metal dice. Daywear pieces included folkish knits with transitioning patterns and short-sleeved versions of the Guernsey sweater. The designer also included braided leather inserts in some of the garments as a nod to her love of repairing beloved clothing.
For evening wear, the collection featured black pieces such as fitted knits cut into pale foulards and a regal lambskin topcoat framed at the top by an ebony foulard cravat. The silhouette and line throughout the collection kept shifting, from bulky to slim, rigid to soft, and smooth to textured.
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