A phoenix rises from the ashes; so does the GmbH Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Despite being recently buffeted by turbulent times, designers Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik harness adversity, melding it into a beacon of style and resilience. Their latest collection, aptly named “Kurban,” is a symphony of light, infusing their multicultural background and personal trials into an array of ensembles designed to offer respite from the gloom.
Perched atop a seemingly tumultuous crest, Huseby and Isik have weathered storms both personal and professional. Their sudden departure from Trussardi, tangled in a labyrinth of legal issues, was a professional blow that left them momentarily adrift. Meanwhile, Isik’s harrowing car accident threatened to cast a pall over their creative endeavors. Yet, amidst the strife, they have found an unexpected wellspring of inspiration, culminating in the GmbH Spring/Summer 2024 collection.
“We found ourselves adrift, trapped in a specter of unpaid work and unanswered questions. It felt akin to being abandoned on a ghost ship,” confessed Huseby, hinting at their ordeal at Trussardi. But instead of letting their experiences drag them into a vortex of despair, the duo decided to channel this disquietude into their collection, proving the veracity of the maxim that what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.
The GmbH Spring/Summer 2024 collection is a beacon that emerged from the darkness. Named “Kurban” – an Arabic term implying ‘closeness’, it roots itself deeply in the duo’s multicultural identity, intertwining their Turkish German and Pakistani Norwegian roots. Simultaneously, it embodies the ethos of Eid al-Adha, a prominent Muslim festival coincidentally underway during their discussion, that symbolizes sacrifice and devotion.
Bathed in an array of delicate hues and soft fabrics, the collection reflects Isik’s exploration into ceremonial attires. Reminiscing about his circumcision ceremony attire, a cape adorned with a peacock, Isik integrated elements of draping and capes into his designs. These motifs, trailing over one shoulder or flowing behind, imbue a sense of lightness and connection. “The goal was to seek a sense of closeness and relief,” said Isik. “That inspiration permeates the color palette and the airy feel of the collection.”
In the GmbH Spring/Summer 2024 collection, traditional tailored jackets make audacious appearances, cut away in front to unveil the navel, teasing the brand’s burgeoning swimwear range and echoing provocative clubwear aesthetics. Ranging from a biker jacket and pants in immaculate white croc-embossing, to diaphanous shirts and shorts in pastel degradé adorned with white Arabic script, the summer line-up encapsulates the collection’s intrinsic interplay between lightness and culture.
Following a stint on the women’s calendar, the designers have set their sights on September, earmarked for the unveiling of their second full women’s collection, an exciting prospect. Concurrently, their first is about to debut in stores, punctuated with a fresh line of bags, underpinning their resiliency in the face of adversity.
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