GCDS, under the imaginative helm of Giuliano Calza, has always been synonymous with whimsical realms and futuristic glimpses. But Spring 2024 is different. It’s a blend of the contemporary with a touch of yesteryears, a beautiful paradox of moving forward by glancing back.
While many might recall the vivid inspirations from cartoons and manga in the brand’s previous collections, this season offers something fresh, something deeper. It’s not just about Futurama or other animated series. It’s about Naples, a city that cradles memories, offering a color palette reminiscent of gentle days gone by: light blue skies, mellow yellow sunsets, and wood brown earthiness.
One can almost feel the essence of Naples in each design. The flat-ironed raffia with its 3D logos, the printed leather echoing the texture and patterns from Calza’s grandmother’s cherished wooden furniture, and a phone from the past, remodeled in a comforting brown. There’s innovation in the transformation of ties into denim and the ethereal quality of the shirts, light as a whisper. Pleats, chains, and hooks symbolize the waves and the sturdy bolts of the city, respectively. The lurex knit, with its deceptive spiky appearance, reflects the soft and tender heart of Naples, according to Calza.
But beyond the clothes and the colors, there’s an emotional dimension to the Spring 2024 collection. It represents a homecoming, not just in terms of inspiration but also the venue. Calza chose the GCDS headquarters as the stage, enveloping the space in plastic reminiscent of the anticipation one feels just before setting up a new home. The familiarity of this intimate ambiance allowed the audience to connect deeper, focusing more on the tangible art of clothing and less on peripheral distractions.
With this collection, Giuliano Calza celebrates the very essence of GCDS, reaffirming the brand’s connection to its Neapolitan roots. It’s not just about the brand’s emblem, it’s about the realization of its journey. The interplay of materials, from denim and leather to straw and bourgeoisie tweeds, exemplifies this. There’s a conscious effort to appreciate formality while also gently challenging it. The signature GCDS logo, though present, is woven subtly into the designs, sometimes even at the unexpected place of a heel.
Spring 2024 for GCDS is an ode to memories and heritage, the comforting embrace of home, and the exhilaration of what the future holds. It’s the perfect blend of the known and the new, a reflection of where we come from, where we are, and where we are headed.
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© Photos: GCDS
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