In the mesmerizing shadow of the Eiffel Tower, on the grounds of the Ecole Militaire, the scene was set for an extraordinary milestone. There, to celebrate his fifth anniversary at the helm of DIOR Men, Kim Jones spun a narrative that delicately entwined the brand’s legacy with a reinvigorated perspective on contemporary menswear. This came to life in a beguiling pop-up show, where models, standing in for flowers, bloomed from the floor via hydraulic magic—a whimsical spectacle inspired by founder Christian Dior’s beloved garden.
This vibrant tableau attracted a constellation of spectators, from Hollywood royalty like Demi Moore to rising Thai brand ambassadors Nattawin Wattanagitiphat and Phakphum Romsaithong, known colloquially as Apo and Mile, respectively. They watched in rapture as Jones unfurled a tribute to DIOR’s illustrious lineage of creative directors, from Yves Saint Laurent to Gianfranco Ferré, with a laser focus on the brand’s signature cannage pattern.
Jones’s journey into Saint Laurent’s fashion archives that began last season was amplified in this collection, echoing the pristine, architectural lines of the latter’s 1959 work. The crowning moments included a navy bouclé wool V-neck tunic adorned with a jeweled brooch, and voluminous metallic-threaded tweed coats.
Paying homage to Christian Dior’s earliest collections, Jones reimagined the traditional fabric through a contemporary lens. This revitalized vision gave birth to modern athletic shorts, tank tops, and rucksacks. In tandem, the iconic cannage pattern manifested itself on everything from chic, cropped sweaters, paired with herringbone cardigans, to rich cognac-colored satchels.
Recognizing the evolving fashion landscape, Jones discussed the delicate balance of incorporating brand logos. “Despite the quiet luxury trend, some consumers hanker for strong brand signifiers,” Jones said. However, he admits to being stringent with their usage, understanding that “it can be overkill.”
From his perch as DIOR Men’s artistic director, Jones has merged the couture archives’ richness with his passions—rare first editions, vintage clothing, and art—to perpetually redefine the brand’s menswear narrative. This season, the director found himself enamored with the brand’s vintage jewelry, resulting in the addition of cabochon embroideries on pieces such as pinstriped shirts and a fluorescent green twinset. Loose suits paired with thick-soled brogues injected a dose of London flair into the collection.
In the backdrop of this milestone celebration, Jones opted for a stripped-back décor—an unexpected choice, given the flamboyance often associated with such events. Still, the designer’s focus was clear. “It’s a couture house. I want it to be about clothes,” he declared. With their rich detailing, the pieces spoke for themselves, validating Jones’s desire to let the clothes be the stars.
The DIOR Men Spring/Summer 2024 collection brilliantly reflects Jones’s ability to resonate with the brand’s past while shaping its future, creating an enduring narrative that merges history, innovation, and the undeniable charm of DIOR.
© Photos: DIOR Men
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