The DIOR Men Resort 2024 collection stands as a testament to the seamless blend of classic and contemporary.
Artistic Director Kim Jones, who is on the brink of celebrating his fifth anniversary at the helm, has once again demonstrated his ability to create a unique language for DIOR Men, while maintaining his distinct British influence.
The collection, as Jones describes, is a “between-stages” season, a pre-spring lookbook that covers a broad range of clothes and accessories. It’s a hint at the transition Jones is preparing to make in his career, as he teases plans for a different approach to mark his half-decade milestone at DIOR.
The DIOR Men Resort 2024 collection doesn’t serve as a retrospective of Jones’ tenure, but rather as a showcase of his design prowess. This season, he has masterfully integrated references to the 1980s Buffalo style of Ray Petri into a classic DIOR color palette. The collection also plays with house logos and is accessorized with sparkling jewelry inspired by the highest French national honors.
Jones, a self-proclaimed walking encyclopedia of youth subcultures, has been incorporating this knowledge into his work since his student days. He cites Ray Petri, a key figure in a collaborative group of creatives spanning photographers, filmmakers, and singers, as a significant influence. Petri’s innovative approach to styling and street-casting for men’s editorial shoots in British magazines like The Face, i-D, and Arena, has had a profound impact on Jones’ design philosophy.
The DIOR Men Resort 2024 collection features elements such as boxer shorts under coats paired with heavy military boots, half-kilts referencing both Buffalo skirts and the quasi Egyptian moments from his recent spectacular in Cairo, and his take on the original army-surplus MA-1 flight jackets that Petri’s Buffalo-style elevated from London gay working-class clubwear codes to mainstream fashion.
Jones’ French couture house influence is evident in the clever merge of British argyle sweater and Christian Dior lozenge-shaped logo, a revival from a 1960s design found in the Dior archives. The jewelry, including CD safety-pinned medals pinned to jackets and a silver metal chain belt, is derived from the Grand Cross of the French Legion d’Honneur. This is also a nod to Petri’s styling of Camden antique brooches as pins on kilts and vintage coats in a seminal shoot by Marc Lebon for The Face in 1984.
However, it’s not just about references and nods to the past. What makes DIOR Men a magnet for shoppers is its relatability. Jones has expertly figured out how to retain but soften tailoring, marrying it effortlessly with the casual way men want to dress today. As he puts it, “Even if it’s black tie, you know, it’s not black tie straight-on. When people go to those events they want to go smart and comfortable.“
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