The designer Rei Kawakubo of COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus presented a collection that pushed the limits of traditional tailoring during her recent runway show.
Her suit jackets featured zippered vents, sometimes single ones inserted at the top of the spine and sometimes doubles dangled from the front, where chest pockets are typically found. The ones without vents featured unique and unexpected protrusions, bulging on the front, shoulders or back, such as thick lengths of fake fur and padding extensions resembling large travel pillows arched over the shoulders.
This collection was reminiscent of her controversial “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” collection for women in spring 1997, but this time it was more controlled and deliberate. The designer described her collection as “avant-garde tailoring” and it’s clear that she is pushing the limits of traditional menswear.
From sleeveless capes with sagging lining and jutting shoulders, to fun plaids and plush black capes resembling typical three-button jackets, the collection had a playful side. Zippers were used to open windows on tailored jackets, and shaggy textures were prevalent throughout the collection, adding a sense of fun and unpredictability.
As with her previous “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” collection, Kawakubo’s avant-garde tailoring is sure to elicit strong reactions from the menswear crowd. It’s clear that she is challenging traditional tailoring conventions and pushing the limits of what is possible in menswear.
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