The creative genius behind COACH, Stuart Vevers, marked his tenth year as the executive creative director of the brand with the unveiling of the Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Held at the New York Public Library, the event showcased pieces reflective of Vevers’ journey and love for New York City. From the East Village’s Pyramid Club to the Lexington Candy Shop, every element of the collection encapsulated the essence of his memories, inspirations, and the archetypes of New York fashion.
Stuart Vevers moved from England to New York in the ’90s, a transition that led him to discover places that would make a lasting impact on him and, eventually, his work at COACH. Rather than resorting to a vintage collection, he used his cherished memories of these places as a “blueprint for the design of these archetypes rather than any literal references.“
A specific recollection from the Pyramid Club inspired the collection’s various slip dresses, notably the red leather version paired with rugged biker boots, as well as the sheer renditions with deadstock lace trim worn over little leather underpinnings. Vevers’ observations of young female executives transitioning from power dressing to reinventing the suit informed his expanded offering of easy tailoring in wool, upcycled denim, and regenerative cotton. A well-loved raincoat spotted at the Lexington Candy Shop served as the muse for the cotton trench in the collection.
Vevers maintained several core ideas from the previous season while also introducing new elements. The menswear line adhered to the “shared wardrobe” concept and featured “a lot more tailoring” this season, an evolution reflected in the complementary womenswear as well. However, this was not traditional tailoring; Vevers presented a “real sense of ease” in pieces that were soft, washed, and deconstructed with a distressed patina. Key menswear pieces included a lightweight leather coat, a suede jacket with fringed sleeves, overalls, a cotton trench, and a short-sleeve graphic sweatshirt with sweatpants, featuring the logo of Donohue’s Steak House, another Vevers favorite.
The distressed or unique “patina” found on many pieces for both men and women was an intentional design choice made to create a mood. Vevers emphasized, “We’re not putting patina on these clothes to make them look vintage. We’re putting a patina on these clothes to give an attitude and to create a sense of individuality.” This philosophy aligns with the broader approach to the collection, which Vevers described as stripped down to the essentials, a design decision made to ensure its relevance for the next 80 years.
Stuart Vevers’ Spring/Summer 2024 collection for COACH marks a significant milestone in his career. It is a testament to his journey, his love for New York City, and the timeless appeal of the brand he has been instrumental in shaping. His thoughtful approach to design, from the intentional use of patina to create individuality, to the careful selection of memories and experiences that informed each piece, reflects a deep commitment to creating fashion that is both personal and enduring. Ultimately, this collection is a celebration of a decade of hard work and creativity, and a nod to the inspiration that New York City has provided to Vevers and COACH over the years.
© Photos: COACH
Click on this link to read this article in French version
