The BALMAIN Fall 2023 collection, designed by Olivier Rousteing, marked a return to the roots of the fashion house. Rousteing drew inspiration from the iconic 1953 Jolie Madame look created by Balmain’s founder, Pierre Balmain. This time, the designer extended the same aesthetic to the menswear collection, which was presented in a festive setting at the historic Bar Anglais at the Regina Hotel.
Rousteing’s collection showcased a departure from the prevalent streetwear trend and a return to elegance and timelessness. The designer emphasized the importance of quality and craftsmanship in the new generation of fashion, and how people are seeking unique and well-made pieces. Despite still offering hoodies, sweatpants, and sneakers, Rousteing acknowledged that these items do not evoke the same sense of excitement and aspiration as high-end, crafted pieces.
The menswear collection was a showcase of flamboyant tailoring, featuring slanted rows of buttons, dense crystal embroideries, satin sashes, and Lurex-etched pinstripes. The pants in the collection included both Rousteing’s signature radical flares and a more approachable, tapered and cropped option. The founder’s original slim-fit, sharply cut suits, inspired by the sophistication of Saint Germain jazz artists, were reprised in the collection.
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