The Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2023 collection marked the debut of creative director Ludovic de Saint Sernin, and he aimed to pay homage to the label’s founder while also making his own mark. The show opened with a black look and closed with a white look, both featuring a leather feather bandeau and a bias-cut maxi skirt, symbolizing de Saint Sernin’s intention to spread his own wings.
De Saint Sernin familiarized himself with the house’s archives and the work of its founder by pouring over a book of Demeulemeester’s collections and trying on 80 looks from the archives. He received the blessing of the house founder, who is friends with the label’s new owner, and offered the advice to simply “work hard and do the best you can do.“
The standout pieces of the collection included the men’s suits, worn in the signature Demeulemeester style, and the bias-cut silk skirts paired with shearling shrugs and capelets. One skirt was even cut from chiffon to showcase its draping. The models also walked the runway with their arms crossed over their bare breasts, adding a touch of tenderness to the show.
While de Saint Sernin’s debut collection shows promise, it also leaves room for improvement. The collection could have included more creative interpretations of Demeulemeester’s signature pieces, such as a new version of the tank top or tailored jackets and coats for the fall season. Additionally, the use of fluidity in the collection could have been further emphasized by incorporating low-heeled boots for both male and female models.
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