AMIRI‘s Fall/Winter 2023 collection is a true masterpiece, inspired by the memories and ambitions of Creative Director Mike Amiri. The collection is like a musical composition, taking us on a journey through the sounds and rhythms of 90s New York, when the East Coast was setting the agenda and legendary US producer DJ Premier was leading the way.
The process of creating the collection began in Premier’s Queens studio, where Mike and Premier exchanged ideas and discovered archival cuts that linked to the designer’s own formative years. This idea of production flows through the collection itself, as Mike and his team’s methodology replicates the notion of being in the recording studio: jamming, discovering new rhythms, and new ways of playing with materials.
On this beat, time-honored tailoring fundamentals are cut with those of skate, studio and stage. The garments are drawn loose, fluid, and with generous proportions, slouching with a languid downtown ease. An irreverent spirit, finessed by sophisticated materials such as cashmere, silk, shearling, faux fur, and brushed wool, elevates the garments to the most luxurious versions of themselves. The color palette for the collection is monochrome, silver grey, azure, and ochre, accented with jolts of deep red and mint green, replicating the city hues.
Within AMIRI’s subverted classicism, suiting becomes an everyday signifier of comfort and elegance, rendered in supple leather or brushed wool. Blazers are reimagined with the iconic properties of a varsity jacket, and casual shapes are artfully matured and detailed. Untucked shirt hems peek beneath knitwear, and trademark wide, pleated pants pool more than ever – at times crafted in soft teddy fabric with oversized utility pockets. The optimism of 50s Americana weaves throughout the collection, with prep uniforms mingling with Beat Generation prose, and newsboy hats being counterculture icons.
The collection also features techniques developed and established in-house that distort fabric perception, such as Swarovski sequins hand-embroidered and loose-ended to mimic tassels and the delicate texture of fur is imitated by uncut fine silk. Signature bandana prints are patchworked leather and suede, while patterns hand-painted in the studio are translated to shearling jackets, meticulously crafted from leftover fabric as expressive 3D brushstrokes.
An extravagance in artisanal innovation embraces a sense of performance, drawing on Mike’s early days designing contemporary stagewear for world-renowned musicians. This season represents Mike Amiri in the studio: riffing, experimenting, and hitting his rhythm. The collection also includes the introduction of a new Drum Machine bag as a nod to the favorite instrument amongst producers, alongside The Record in ode to vinyl. AMIRI-branded vinyl crates are carried by models, and on foot, a new hi-top MA-1 style is debuted alongside faux fur iterations of the Malibu Boot.
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