AMI‘s show took place at the Opéra Bastille on a large open stage covered with a white carpet. The collection, titled Prelude and which includes both menswear and womenswear, represents a new step towards establishing a more precise and distinguished look. The collection is the result of a thought that the brand’s founder and creative director, Alexandre Mattiussi, had in mind ever since he founded AMI. This marks the beginning of a new chapter for the brand and for him.
The collection goes back to the essence of AMI – pure and pragmatic, fresh and flexible. This season, AMI’s winter is lighter: materials, colors, and shapes are softer, very fluid. Inspiration for the collection stems from the way French people dress, a playful and effortless mixing of traditional, luxurious items and contemporary, casual ones. Silhouette and colors, specific codes defining AMI’s modernity, are reinforced to embrace new expressions and create an even richer universe. The archetypal fundamentals of the wardrobe are reinterpreted: their shapes are very authentic in their details, with a silhouette relaxed and refined, and easy to wear.
The collection features pieces inspired by a bourgeois tailoring and by heritage pieces, with a twist: a lived-in touch that creates a sense of familiarity, expressed in the relaxed fit. The overall silhouette is generous, yet refined, marked by deconstructed unisex volumes, which perfectly defines the Parisian, male or female. It deliberately retains, however, a more masculine vibe: the collection is built around the man’s wardrobe yet is accessible and adapted to women.
AMI’s palette is renowned for its surprising, often contrasting associations. Yet this season, colors are poetical and harmonious, the resulting palette is balanced and sophisticated. Beige, light brown taupe, light gray, pale pink, vanilla pale yellow, aqua blue, powdery green – subtle colors that confer the collection much of its soft and light spirit. These neutral and dusty pastel tones are paired with touches of navy blue and anthracite, complemented by deeper colors in leather garments and accessories.
Fabrics reflect the warmth of a cozy Fall-Winter: soft and lush, crushed, brushed or fluffy, yet always on the light side. AMI’s notorious high-quality fabrics include silk, alpaca and cashmere. Very tactile, with a beautiful hand, they are comfortable to wear. Luxurious embroideries (handmade with pearls and beads on tulle) are uncommonly layered on menswear-inspired pieces, adding character and artistry in an unconventional application.
Accessories are also an important part of the collection. The “Nap Bag” is AMI’s bag of the season. This large, extra-padded shoulder bag is made of a very soft nappa leather, in a shape reminding of a pillow. Its deconstructed elegance is enhanced by its metallic, Ami de Cœur-shaped clasp. The Fall-Winter 23 collection also features a stylish jewelry line that echoes its spirit. The jewels look as if they have been passed on repeatedly from one generation to the next. Their beauty is deliberately imperfect, slightly asymmetric, as is AMI’s symbolic Ami de Cœur on the jewelry, while the stones’ setting appears uneven – as if time had faintly contorted or melted it.
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